THE STORY & ITS AFTERLIVES
From Mount Taiqi the River Guan flows west into the shifting sands, and in its waters swarm the Wenyao fish: 'shaped like a carp, a fish's body with bird's wings, grey-patterned with a white head and red beak, it ranges the western sea and swims to the eastern sea, flying by night.' The classic adds that its call is like the luan-fowl, its flesh tastes sour-sweet, eating it cures madness, and 'when it appears, all under heaven enjoys a great harvest'.
Most prodigies in the Shanhaijing bring calamity by appearing; the Wenyao is the rare creature whose coming promises abundance — and which can, moreover, be eaten as food and medicine. It entered the literature of cuisine early: in the 'Original Flavors' chapter of the Lüshi Chunqiu, the legendary cook Yi Yin lists among the finest fish of the world 'the fish of the Guan waters, named Yao, shaped like a carp with wings, which flies by night from the western sea to swim in the eastern sea', ranking it with such delicacies as apes' lips and badger roasts. Winged fish streaming over the water at night became a favorite scene for the classic's later illustrators.
